Saison, my favorite summertime beer. “It’s a versatile style,” says Ron Jeffries. He’s made rose-hued hibiscus saisons, barrel-aged sour saisons, and roasty, black saisons, to name a few. Stillwater adds sage and other herbs; Stone/Dogfish Head/Victory use the Paul Simon blend. “There aren’t really any rules. Just keep it light, dry, and a little bitter to be more refreshing: A beer you can have a couple glasses of.”
Saisons are easy drinking, brewed crisp and relatively weak so farmers could knock back their per diem at lunch and stay sober enough to swing a scythe. But they don’t skimp on flavor like other so-called lawnmower beers—saisons can be spicy or mellow, rich as whole-grain bread or airy as champagne. Saisons are a beer-maker’s beer, the secret darling of an industry agog over the big and boozy. Ask even the most extreme craft brewer what they think drank with last night’s dinner, and chances are good they’ll drop their eyes and say, “well, saison.” Why did David Logsdon, founder of Full Sail Brewing and the Wyeast brewing yeast company, after twenty-plus years in the biz, move back to the family orchard-cum-cattle ranch to perfect this one style of beer? “I brew saisons because that’s what I like to drink,” he said. Complex enough to keep the pros busy, but rustic enough for the workaday masses, saisons are blue-collar beer done right: all flavor, no pretense, a picnic in a bottle.
We tasted some at a recent beer club, and these are the best we found:
Jolly Pumpkin Bam Bière
Foamy, fresh, and cheek-suckingly tart, this one actually seems to make you thirstier.
True to the style’s name, David Logsdon brews his extra-spicy saisons on the family farm, and feeds the used grain to his Scottish highland cattle. This one tastes like a barn on fire: smokey wood and chewy, wet hay.
Slightly sweet with a bright citrus tang, this picnic-worthy Philly brew is pure summertime, like fizzy orange soda.
Stillwater Stateside Saison
Another new brewery specializing in farmhouse ales, Stillwater makes a beguiling, sage-spiced saison and this unspiced version, smooth, lush, and tropical.
North Coast La Merle
What starts floral and effervescent, like a chilly white wine, finishes with a blooming, fruity fullness.